New York Virgin Guide



     Feted institutions should often be avoided, but this drag queens' French diner on a cobblestone street is so much fun. You'll go away hoarse and deaf (especially late on weekends) and will eat amply, if not memorably. Best bets are roast chicken with mustard sauce and mash, boudin noir and fries, mussels, smoked trout, French toast, or steak frites. It's an ideal pitstop on your way home after an exhausting evening. Best to be decisive about what you want because some of the waiters are verging on cruel.